Hyacinth in a pot in winter is a holiday. But with the wrong forcing of bulbs or maintenance problems occur frequently, affect the appearance, and even the viability of the plant. How to avoid it?
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The most common problems encountered when forcing hyacinth bulbs in the winter-spring season:
— The leaves turn yellow. If there is insufficient light or improper watering is yellowing of the color of leaves. Hyacinths watered moderately, after drying the top layer of soil in the pot. If the leaves dry up, then they were frozen or the plant stood in the draft. You can’t keep a house plant in a pot wrapped in Saran wrap.
— Long, limp leaves. The lack of light, when the plant is left in the dark as the soil is excessively watered the leaves are highly elongated. Hyacinth is required for flowering bright spot on the window. Even better if, in addition to illuminate, to light day lasted at least 10 hours.
— Very slow growth. One of the reasons is lack of timeliness of the rest of the bulbs when forcing. All depends on the characteristics of varieties and sowing time. Hyacinth bulbs take root within 2 to 3 months and then start to grow. The next reason is lack of watering.
— No flowers. If at blooming leaves, no stems, it is possible that the bulbs are small (young) and this season they will bloom. The next reason — the distillation takes place at high temperatures than expected, namely 18…20oC. Lack of moisture can also inhibit flowering.
— Buds are not disclosed or rot. The ingress of water on the flower arrow or negligent (irregular) watering is the most common cause. Waterlogging of the soil in the pot, cultivation without adequate drainage cause fungal diseases.
— Deformation and distortion of the flowers. The reason — the high temperature in the dormant period, the contents of plants in a stuffy room, in an unheated, but Sunny. The flower stalk stretches and bends to one side. This deficiency can not be corrected.